Gone With A Carry On

Spring Camino packing list

My first ever Camino was in the spring. The weeks leading up to my walking dates were warm, dry, and flirting with summer weather. However, after I started walking a cold snap hit. 

I started on the Norte and had beautiful warm spring days. The weather was perfect—and often it was hot. I was pleasantly surprised by the warmth and figured it would continue. Again, gorgeous days leading up to the Camino Primitivo and a lovely, balmy, zero day in Oviedo.

Then the weather turned.

Day one was cold and rainy. Wishing for the best and preparing for the worst, I headed out of town. Over the course of this camino, no two days were alike due to shifting weather. In the mountains I had a mix of cold, rainy mornings, sunny afternoons, and chilly evenings.

The worst day was going over the Hospitales route. The weather predictions said it would be chilly, but doable. I spoke with the hosts at my albergue and they all said it would be fine. This was going to be a tough day for multiple reasons: the weather, the terrain, and the biggest stretch I had done so far with no services. No bars, stores, restaurants. Nothing. Just me, the path, and whatever I had on my back for the 24km stage.

Knowing it was going to be chilly, I wore all my layers. I wore my “off duty” thermal top over my hiking top, my puffer jacket, and my raincoat. On the way up the mountain, around 7:30am, it was windy, cold, and extremely foggy. The walk felt very moody with the muddy trail surrounded by the blackened trees from the recent wildfire. It was quiet outside of the occasional horse, my footsteps on the gravel, and the rain falling on my raincoat.

I continued to the highest point of the stage where I was whipped by the violent wind and rain. I kept walking, hoping that the sun would come out and that it would be over soon.

Then the rain turned to a hail storm with freezing temperatures.

My hands were so cold I used my extra pair of wool socks as gloves. Up there, it’s mostly open fields with no cover. The only shelter available is two ruins (former hospitals from the 1200s- hence the “hospitals route”) which were filled with trash, broken furniture, brambles, and thick mud. Some pilgrims squeezed together in the ancient walls to hide out the storm, but honestly those old buildings were barely any better than the elements. I figured it was better to keep moving to stay warm.

I truly regretted taking the route and wanted to get through it as quickly as possible. It was absolutely freezing and miserable. This stage is the only time I have considered calling a cab on the Camino. Not for comfort, but for safety.

At the peak I was so cold and the view was frustratingly blocked by fog. I had come so far and had thought about this view for weeks leading up to my walk. I thought of how triumphant it would feel to be rewarded with the vista. I was beyond disappointed to have no visibility.

I sighed, accepted that this was part of the Camino, and began to descend into the fog. Then, suddenly, the sun came out and cleared out the clouds and rain for a brief window of time. It felt heavenly to be at the overlook when this happened. There was the view! I sat and enjoyed it, relished in my resilience, and felt a wave of gratitude that I got to have my moment up top.

If this were a two act play, the second act was the descent.

As if the hail storm wasn’t enough, mother nature decided to spice things up a bit with a lightning storm while I was in an open field with no cover.

With the ruins far behind me, there was no shelter anywhere, and the storm was right above the trail. I started speed walking to get out of the clearing and to the nearest capella. It was locked. I ran down the path and tried to find refuge in a barn. It was also locked. I figured the only way out was through, so I ran the trail until I found some woods for cover.

At the end of the stage all I wanted was a warm shower. I was relieved that everyone on the trail made it off the mountain safely (it turned out there were many of us). If I had known how intense the day was going to be, I would not have taken the Hospitales route that day. There is an alternative route that I recommend taking instead because the weather in the shoulder season can turn on a dime.

This experience is a snapshot of what walking can be like on a shoulder season.

If you choose to walk during this time:
be prepared for the worst and hope for the best.

Musts

OKAY, ONTO THE LIST

**All clothes (except what I wore on trail) are packed in this 3L drybag 

On-trail Clothes

  • 1x Merino sun hoody (Sun protection is so important on trail)
  • 1x Pair hiking pants (Pockets are helpful for snacks or your phone)
  • 1x Merino wool buff 
  • 1x Pair sun gloves (Warmth, saves my hands from sun exposure and me the annoyance of sunscreen)
  • 1x Brimmed hat (I like a baseball cap)

In-Town Clothes 

  • 1x Pair quick dry pants, or wool leggings
  • 1x Merino thermal long sleeve shirt 

OR

  • Dress (weather permitting)

Under layers + other items

Weather layers 

  • 1x Raincoat (A good quality one! The winds can be too strong for a poncho and you can pack the contents of your bag into a dry-bag)
  • 1x Warm layer (This can also be a puffer jacket)

Merino wool is an excellent fabric for travel because it is wrinkle resistant, odor resistant, breathable, temperature regulating, continues to insulate even when wet, sustainable, and it dries quickly. The downside is it can be expensive. I highly recommend adding some pieces gradually with sales at sierra, icebreaker, backcountry, quince, wool&, or REI.

Footwear

  • 1x Pair trail runners (Lightweight, good traction, and dry overnight)
  • 1x Pair of sandals (For off-trail, showers, dorms. The less bulky the better. I wear mine with socks in the fall.)

Toiletries (put liquids in smaller bottles, and opt for solid toiletries when possible. If I run out of something I know I can buy more at my destination.)

Electronics – packed in this 1L drybag

  • 1x 30w charger that’s EU compliant (Save yourself the bulk of a big adapter: buy the little adapters and put them on a US charger)
  • 1x 6’ charging cable (Plugs are in the weirdest spots in older buildings)
  • 1x USB-C to USB-A adapter (Not all public ports have upgraded to USB-C)
  • 1x Set headphones (Don’t be the jerk with the speaker on the trail)

Miscellaneous

  • Sleep kit: 1x eye mask, 1x set ear plugs (Each dorm is graced by a snorer)
  • 1x Sleeping bag liner (You want something between you and the mattress. Dorms don’t provide sheets, but many do provide blankets. It gets hot in a dorm full of people so I like the liner over the puffy bag. If there are no blankets, I wear my clean trail clothes and warm layer to bed.)
  • 1x Pair sunglasses (Polarized and UPF protection! I put them on a lanyard)
  • 1x Travel towel (The best of the best. Not all are made equally!)
  • 1x Kula Cloth (For those who squat to pee)
  • 1x Mini S biner (To clip Kula cloth to pack)
  • 1x Hero clip (Keeps my bag off the ground or the bathroom floor)
  • 9’ of paracord (Makeshift clothesline and other uses)
  • 1x mini pen 
  • 2x Quart sized ziplock bags (1x for passport and credential, 1x spare)
  • 1x Set trekking poles (With a thick wrist strap! I buy them when I land in Spain)
  • 1x Set trekking pole rubber tips (Better for roads. Decathlon sells them) 

First Aid 

(*I am not a doctor, these are suggestions)

Baggage

The smaller the better! I’ve hiked with a 28L, a 20L and a 6L. I recommend the 18/20L size. I used a day-hike bag and added more substantial hip straps to it and it was perfect. Whatever bag you choose, pretreat it with some anti-bedbug spray before you fly out. Bed bugs are a big issue on the Camino.

Or

eSIM

I use Airalo when I travel abroad or do a Camino because it’s easy, works well, and the price is right. This is a data only eSIM. Through experience I’ve learned that I only need a data plan, and that it’s much cheaper than upgrading my domestic cellphone plan. Use referral code GWACO8480 to receive $3.00 off your next eSIM with Airalo!

I hope this list helps you pack lighter on your next trip. Remember, less is more!

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